We've done that before and it's worked out pretty well. I'm thinking maybe 3' wide scribe blanks? It might not be as practical with solid wood scribes as it would be with plywood scribes, from a material usage standpoint. Maybe a few different lengths, each with a few quick clamps on there. Also a real sharp block plane is a big help!Ĭool idea about cutting the scribe and then ripping! I hadn't thought of that, maybe that's workable with a jig or two. Leave one stile loose so that you can do a final fit into the opening. If you have a cabinet with a face frame and want to achieve a recessed scribe make your face frame to the width necessary to accommodate the scribe and then rabbet it to create the recess.

Scribe the piece and then clamp it between two pieces of wood to rip in the table saw for the side that will butt into the cabinet. Concerning a scribe for the frameless I would make a wider piece for the scribe. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Another is, it's tricky working with such tiny scribes sometimes we're even dealing with 1/4' or 1/2' reveals, making the scribes really tiny and tricky to work with. One problem with this method is that it's tricky to hold the scribe in place accurately to mark it. I'm looking for better methods, or ways to improve our results with this type of scribe detail. After the cabinet is installed, the scribe is held in place, marked, cut, and then pushed back in to place against the cleat and attached with glue and maybe a micro pin or two. The scribes are usually 1/4', supplied loose.

Usually the way we handle it is we build the cabinet with a cleat on the side, to be used as a backing for the scribe. Over the years we've done a fair amount of high-end contemporary work where the scribe is recessed relative to the face of the cabinet (or relative to the doors on a European-style cabinet).

Cabinet scribe thickness